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'Purple' build thread

Started by Statler , Jun 19 2009 05:01 PM

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585 replies to this topic

#201 fatslr

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 08:10 AM

Nice Arse

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#202 Statler

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 01:38 PM

Now the waterpump pulley is out of alignment! Sheesh!

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#203 Ice

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 01:44 PM

Gee i hope your gunna give that fan motor a lick of paint

And i want some pics with the simmonies on it cmon

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#204 Statler

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 01:58 PM

What's wrong with the fan motor? It has character!

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#205 Ice

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 02:20 PM

What's wrong with the fan motor? It has character!

yeah 30years of it

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#206 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 03:05 PM

Great to see your car coming together col.

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#207 Stinga

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:14 PM

leave the fan motor Col, then you can say its unrestored :dontknow:

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#208 Statler

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 09:03 PM

leave the fan motor Col, then you can say its unrestored

Hey Gene ....... it's unrestored!

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#209 Ice

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 09:19 PM

Yeah right

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#210 Statler

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 12:31 AM

Looks like a custom water pump pulley is on the cards. I have a hot tip on a retired machinist (spin doctor).

I had the long nosed pump on it originally but changed it to the short pump to suit the Gilmer. Do you think i can find the long nosed pump & pulley now?

In the meantime, i thought i might investigate the 'healing powers' of molassis.

Take 1 rusty alternator adjusting bracket, drop it in the gunk, & let's see what happens!
How long should i leave it in for? lol

I've had a N.O.S bumper rubber strip forever. The bag had split & somehow it ended up covered in goop! Not normal goop, the kind that really takes a LOT of removing! Dammit!

2hrs of scrubbing with soap & water fixed about 12" of it. Almost a retirement project!

Didn't want to budge! I scored some truckwash from a m8. problem solvered!

Old & new.

Just need to find some really small SS button head bolts for the numberplate lamp & i can finally bolt the rear bumper back on! Woot! I'm regreting not leaving the rear beaver panel in body color, but meh. can't see it from the drivers seat!

I'm starting to enjoy that stage where tightening up a bolt that doesn't have to be removed again is satisfying! Doesn't happen often though.

Ever tried removing clutch pedal/foot brake assembly without removing the heater box? Oh what joy! Handbrake cable is hooked up to the pedal now, & Micks (sstorana) handbrake release knob & actuating arm are onboard.

Baby steps i know, but i'm having a go.

P.S. Gotta love the 'working on the car shorts'! lol

Edited by Statler, 15 February 2013 - 12:33 AM.

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#211 hanra

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 07:59 AM

My NOS bumper strip had the same stuff on it hey!!!!! Ill have to try and rack my brain as to what I used to get it off. Yes it did take a little while...

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#212 Mort

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 08:55 AM

Good to see you have the correct safety boots on as well, you can never be too careful around the home workshop. :spoton:

Hope there is lots of progress now that the damn exhaust caper is sorted.

I left my brake, clutch, accelerator pedals in for about 2 weeks and they turned out ok, probably a bit long but i went on holidays so just left them.

What ever you do, don't put springs ( don't mean suspension ones) in the stuff, i put the glovebox hinges and clutch pedal with the springs on them in and the molasses ate them and made them brittle. :angry:

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#213 Statler

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 02:14 PM

Argh! This damn car is doing everything to be difficult!

Went to fit the NOS rear bumper strip, just to find out that it is a front one! I've been hanging onto it for years too!

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#214 hanra

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 03:02 PM

I woulda bought it off ya if it was a rear one!!!!!! hahahahahahaha

I had to use a RSP's one on my rear bar.

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#215 _AD_75_

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 03:38 PM

Somebody buy this guy a pair of shorts! he cant afford a new pair after buying that new exhaust system.

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#216 _nial8r_

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 06:47 PM

Exhaust is finally fitted.

Castle hill pipes, 2 1/2" all the way back. Stainless from the back seat to the bumper.

Final bill (less repairs) $3700.

Towing cost to cart the car 3ks there & 3 ks back .... $250! (& he is doing me a favour apparently at that price).

I am so frOcking sick of being fleeced in this frOcking town!

holy crap Col dont mean to knock the wind outta ya sails mate, but 250 clams for 6k's of towing...... i would have pushed the frOcking thing there, i wasnt convinced my LX was Chassis straight so had it towed ( on a tilt tray ) to a panel shop to have it put on the aliner and the tow only cost me $50 each way and the shop is about 7k's each way. the towie even pulled it up my driveway and helped get it back down as the car had no brakes, lucky he had a long cable on his winch

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#217 _nial8r_

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 07:02 PM

hey Col what did you get the short nose water pump off ?? im after one and would buy yours but i think postage would kill me :furious:unless you wanna do a swap if you can find you long nose pump ??

I have a front and rear bar rubbers here but there not new and still on the bars, i can have a look to see to see what condition there in and if they suit your needs you can have them, after all you have helped me a shit load with welding problems :spoton:

Edited by nial8r, 15 February 2013 - 07:04 PM.

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#218 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 09:40 PM

AFIK the only difference in early & late water pumps is the bearing size, there is no long/short pump like SBC have. Later Holden V8s had the larger bearing pump because the smaller ones failed from the extra load of PWR steer & A/C. A factory single groove pulley from a HQ-HZ or V8 Torana will ensure your belt tracks properly. The one fitted to your engine in the pic is a VN-VS Commodore one I believe.

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#219 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 09:50 PM

I forgot to add that I run a large bearing pump on both my LHs but with HQ-LH V8 pulleys & I've never had issues with belts not tracking correctly. I can post a pic of the correct pulley if it helps.

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#220 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 07:44 AM

thanks for the info there Matt, im after a short nose pump so i can run the Gilmer set up one the 304 like they do on the 308's

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#221 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:51 AM

The main visual difference I've noticed between the small/large bearing pumps is the extra rib that runs down the top of the pump housing to the hub. You can still run a Gilmer on the large bearing pump by grinding this rib down enough for the Gilmer pulley to clear. Personally I don't like Gilmer drives, they put extra load on the water pump & alternator bearings especialy if the belt is excessively tight, causing them to fail. A friend of mine was hospitalised & nearly killed by a Gilmer pulley hitting him in the face when a water pump bearing let go on a 308 Torana he was tuning. He still bears the scars from this. If I were to run a Gilmer on a 308, i'd use the large bearing pump with the clearence modification.

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#222 Statler

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 11:20 AM

The 308s run a 'short' pump. The 304 pump is indeed longer. I'm not certain without having the 2 infront of me, but i think there is about 30mm difference. The 'long' pump spaced the gilmer pulley too far forward. I think if i can find the 304 w/p pulley i may be alright. Failing that...... i will have a new one made from billet alloy.

Thanks for the offer Lee. but for $100 i will just buy a new rubber strip. I need to get some finishing items from rsp anyway.

Brad, without going back through your extensive build thread, what are your opinions of the rsp rubber?

Somebody buy this guy a pair of shorts! he cant afford a new pair after buying that new exhaust system.

That cracked me up! LOL